Posts Tagged ‘ tung oil ’

The Hoops

Ok, So here are the hoops that I have from Metro Drums (check them out, their work is amazing http://www.metrodrums.com/ ) Most of these Pictures are of them unfinished however they have been wet sanded (with tung oil) to 1200 grit, and are looking smooth and good. When they are done I will take some more pictures and Show the final product. They are a Blackbutt and Jarrah Hybrid hoop

10×4 Walunt 10ply Shell

I have Finally got a shell that im pretty happy with,  I have cut the Edges, Sanded it to 240, and it is ready for a finish. Im still getting the seams good, but I would be happy to have this as my own drum. So I am going to put hardware etc on it.

So its a 10×4 American walnut ply shell. its 10 ply, I originally planned on making it 12, but my gymball went KA-BOOOOM (well whoooosh) and i had to take the 11th and 12th ply out. It’s annoying as it left way too much glue on the internal which I tried to remove but wouldnt work.

I also think I might play around with some other glue, I like this glue but it’s just leaves way too much glue when laminating I think its bleeding through.

It’s a double 45 edges, but most of the time I see the bigger edge on the inside not the outside. I’m not sure if this will sound great. I am finding out.

For the finish im not sure, I tung makes it look nice, but thats easy as. I might try a gloss. Any suggestions?

I’m thinking of brass hardware, tubes. Also I want to get an isolation mount so i can mount it without a snare stand. But the only one that i can find is http://www.drumfactorydirect.com/ind…16927dba3aa6ab its also kinda ugly. I’m trying to get everything from the one store, and this store has every thing in brass that I want its like 250 all up with shipping or a bout 180 without the iso mount

I might even have to sell the first snare that I made
Oh yeah in the pics the seam looks worse than it actually is, the internal ones are still about 1-2mm out but the external is only about .5mm at the worst, one end is perfect.

Bearing Edges

Ok so a little update from yesterday. I have put a coat of tung oil on it, and its sanded to about 240. Still a long way to go, but not sure if I will go all out with this finish. I probably should to practice but I will decide that soon.

I cut the bearing edges today. One side was less than desirable. But then I changed to a newer bit and it cut alot better. I think the router bit I was using was blunt. The edges are round-over outer 45deg inner.

I also put another shell in the mould. Its going to be a 10×4. I think I may have made the mould a little too undersized. Oh well.

Here are some pictures of the edges and also one with a dusty head a rim. They arn’t great but thats ok.

10×8 out of the mould

So i just pulled a 10×8 out of my new 10×10 mould. Its looking ok, but there is an issue with the seams. Hopefully i will have this sorted out soon. Its easy to pull out a drum after 4 ply and then put it back in with the mould so I might start doing that instead of wasting all this veneer.

Here are some pictures… I have started to finish this drum, just with tung oil, but I plan on putting some Hardware on it. I want to put brass on it, but I wanna buy it all from the same place. still looking around.

Its a 10×8 American walnut Ply drum. 8 Ply (layup is HvvHHvvH)

Here are the pictures.

The Big Reveal

Today I pulled the shell out of the mould. Everything went OK, could have been better and could have been a lot worse. So there was no gaps in-between any plys which is a good thing. There has been a few issues with the plys moving after the pressure has been applied, I think this is to do with the PVA glue. And the only other issue is the seams, I Need to get the each leaf of veneer measured exact; the seams looked perfect in the mould, but moved out about 2-3mm.

Some things that I have learnt from this shell:

  • PVA glue takes WAY too long to cure – 24hr isn’t enough. The time is too long, so I will switch back to Titebond III.
  • PVA glue is more prone to rippling – this could also be an issue with clamp time, not sure.
  • The shell will stick to the mould – this is pretty common sense, if the shell has glue being squeezed out at the sides, it is going to glue itself to the mould. I think this can be overcome by either coating the shell in a few coats of tung oil or similar (because that stops glue from sticking so well or using wax paper in between the shell and the veneer.
  • I need a new mould – This mould has broken, glue has become unstuck and I don’t think it’s strong enough.

Any suggestions? Feel free to contact me/leave a comment.

%d bloggers like this: